Seoul to Chungju by Bike: 165 km on Korea's Cross-Country Bike Path (A Big Rider's Story)
Some rides are about speed. This one was about one simple idea — the title I gave it on Strava: "Just keep turning the pedals, and eventually you'll get there."
On a Saturday in late May, I left my neighborhood of Mangwon-dong in Seoul at 7 a.m. and rode 165 km southeast to the city of Chungju — almost entirely on dedicated bike paths. I'm 187 cm (6'2") and 115 kg (254 lb), which makes me a proud "Clydesdale" in cycling terms. If a guy my size can do this ride in a day, you can too.
Here's how the day went, what the route is like, and what I'd tell anyone thinking about riding it.
The Ride at a Glance
| Start | Mangwon-dong, Seoul (Han River) |
|---|---|
| Finish | Chungju Bus Terminal, Chungju |
| Distance | 165 km (102.5 mi) |
| Moving time | 6 h 48 min |
| Total time (with breaks) | 9 h 27 min |
| Elevation gain | 885 m |
| Average speed | 24.3 km/h |
| Bike paths | More than 90% of the route |
| Weather at start | Clear, 13°C, light wind |
(All numbers are from my Strava recording.)
My Bike — and My Duck
My ride is a 2015 Cervélo S3 in size 56, in bright red. It's an aero road bike, which means it loves flat river paths — and that's exactly what most of this route is.
Look closely at the handlebar and you'll see my most important piece of equipment: a little yellow rubber duck wearing a red helmet.
If you spend any time in Korea, you'll notice that Koreans love putting cute things on whatever they ride or drive. Character figures on car dashboards, plush toys hanging from rear-view mirrors, stickers on delivery scooters, little animals clipped to bike handlebars — it's everywhere. Riding a serious carbon race bike with a toy duck on the front is a very Korean combination, and honestly, it makes people smile when you pass them on the path. If you're visiting, picking up a cute handlebar mascot is a fun (and cheap) souvenir.
Why Korea's Bike Paths Are So Good
Before I describe the route, I want to explain why riding here is such a pleasure.
Most of Korea's long-distance bike paths were planned and built on purpose, mostly along rivers. They aren't just painted lines on the side of a busy road. That means:
- Smooth, clean surfaces. The pavement is generally well kept, so you can relax instead of watching for potholes.
- Wide-open views. You ride along rivers, fields and low mountains with very few buildings blocking the view.
- Very little car traffic. On most sections, you share the path only with other cyclists and walkers.
- Easy navigation. The paths are well signposted and connected, so you can follow one route for hundreds of kilometers.
For me, this makes long rides feel like "healing rides" — the kind where you can switch off your brain, enjoy the scenery and just pedal.
The Route: Following the Cross-Country Bike Path
Korea has a famous long-distance route often called the Cross-Country Bike Path (국토종주 자전거길, gukto jongju). It runs all the way from Incheon, through Seoul, to Busan on the south coast. My plan was simple: get on the Han River bike path in Seoul and follow the cross-country route south-east until Chungju.
1. Seoul: The Han River Bike Path (0–30 km)
I started from Mangwon-dong at 7 a.m. and rode east along the Han River. Early morning is the best time here — the path is quiet, the air is cool, and you get the city skyline on one side and the river on the other. The first 25 km are almost completely flat.
Around the 30 km mark, near Amsa-dong in eastern Seoul, comes the first short climb of the day as the path heads toward Hanam. It's not long, but it's a nice wake-up call for the legs.
2. Paldang to Yangpyeong (30–75 km)
After leaving Seoul, the route passes Paldang and follows the Namhan River (South Han River). This is one of the prettiest sections: river views, old railway tunnels and bridges that have been converted into bike paths, and mountains all around. It's mostly flat and fast.
Near Yangsu Station, you'll pass a chogye-guksu (chilled chicken noodle soup) restaurant that is something of a pilgrimage site for Korean cyclists — on weekends, you'll see rows of road bikes parked outside. I didn't stop this time because I wanted to keep my rhythm, but if you're not in a hurry, it's a classic place to take a break.
3. Climb #2: Humigae Pass (around 80 km)
Past Yangpyeong, in Gaegun-myeon, the path leaves the riverside and goes up and over Humigae Pass (후미개고개). It's one of the best-known climbs on this part of the route. It's short but steep enough that you'll want to shift into your easiest gear early. For a big rider like me, the rule is simple: don't fight the hill — spin up slowly and save your energy for later.
4. Ipo Weir and Yeoju (85–115 km)
After Humigae, the route drops back down to the river near Ipo Weir. This is where I stopped for a selfie — wide river, big sky, and yellow wildflowers lining the path.
From here the path continues to Yeoju. Around 113 km, I crossed the Namhan River on a bridge with a great view up the valley.
5. Climb #3: Gangcheon, Yeoju (around 120 km)
Near Gangcheon-ri, the path climbs again, this time through green hills away from the river. By this point (over 120 km), every climb feels a bit harder than it should.
6. Into Chungju: Saebaji and the Final Climb (140–165 km)
Once you cross into Chungcheongbuk-do province, the scenery becomes more rural and the hills get a little bigger. Around 145 km, the path climbs along Saebaji-gil in Jocheon-ri, Chungju.
Then, at about 154 km, came the toughest climb of the day — a short, steep road in Jungangtap-myeon that took me to the highest point of the ride, roughly 180 m above sea level. After more than 150 km, my legs were screaming. As you can see from the photo, I was either laughing or crying — I'm still not sure which.
On the way down, I hit my top speed of the day (77 km/h). From there, it was an easy roll into Chungju.
7. The Finish: Chungju Bus Terminal
I finished at the Chungju Bus Terminal at around 4:20 p.m., 9 and a half hours after leaving home. Tired, happy, and very hungry.
Getting Back to Seoul: Bus + Bike
I rode one way, so I took an intercity bus (siwoe bus, 시외버스) back to Seoul with my bike. It's surprisingly easy:
- No bike bag or wheel covers needed. On regular intercity buses, you simply put your bike in the luggage compartment under the bus yourself.
- The catch: space is first come, first served. If the luggage hold is already full of bags (or other bikes), you can't load your bike — and you may have to wait for the next bus. Get to the bus early so you can claim a spot in the hold.
- Book your ticket while you ride. Around the time you can predict your arrival, book a seat on the T money GO app (티머니GO), which handles intercity bus reservations. That way you don't arrive at the terminal only to find the next few buses sold out.
Finishing right at the bus terminal made the whole trip simple: ride in, load the bike, and nap all the way home.
Tips If You Want to Ride Seoul to Chungju
- Start early. Leaving at 7 a.m. gave me plenty of daylight, even with long breaks.
- Expect a long day. My moving time was under 7 hours, but with breaks the whole trip took over 9 hours. Plan for stops.
- The climbs are short. The route is mostly flat, with a handful of short climbs (Amsa, Humigae, Gangcheon, Saebaji and the final climb near Chungju). Use low gears and take your time.
- Eat and drink regularly. On a ride this long, don't wait until you're hungry. Convenience stores near the path make it easy to refuel.
- Use Naver Map or Kakao Map. Google Maps doesn't work well in Korea. Both Korean apps show bike-friendly routes.
- Big riders, don't be scared. At 115 kg, I'm not built for climbing — but because the paths are smooth and the hills are short, this route is very doable at your own pace.
One more thing: along the cross-country route, you'll see red booths where riders stamp their Bike Passport (certification booklet). I didn't collect stamps on this ride, but if you're planning to ride the whole route to Busan someday, it's worth picking up a passport and stamping as you go. I'll cover how the Bike Passport works in a separate post.
Would I Do It Again?
Absolutely. Seoul to Chungju is one of the best day rides you can do from Seoul: smooth bike paths, beautiful river scenery, and just enough climbing to make you feel like you earned your dinner. And if a 115 kg Clydesdale with a rubber duck on his handlebars can make it, so can you.
Have questions about this route or cycling in Korea? Leave a comment below — I'm happy to help.









Comments
Post a Comment